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Post by Frabjous on Oct 17, 2014 7:05:57 GMT
For this draft-along we will be drafting a custom copy of this vintage pattern find. This is not only a great wearable style, but a perfect pattern drafting case study for anyone who wants to learn more about circle skirts, pleats, grain line and much more.  Pattern information: This is a 1959 pattern by Vogue Patterns. The envelope describes the style as ... ... a flared skirt in two length, which has deep front and back box pleats. Front pleats cross over at waist line. Wide shaped and narrow straight waistband. Four gored petticoat also in two lengths...Fabric suggestions: Cotton satin - Gingham - Pique - Cotton Broadcloth - Barathea - Satin - Faille - Shantung - Wool Crepe - Lightweight Woolen DRAFT ALONG PLAN: INTRO POSTS:Gather your toolsMeasurements & CalculationsPART 1: PETTICOAT, OR LININGI will start with drafting a basic ⅜ circle skirt, which can then be also used as a pattern for the petticoat or lining. It makes sense to start with the easiest piece first, and I will use this opportunity to go over some basic steps for those of you who don’t have experience drafting circle skirts. PART 2: THE BACK AND THE STRAIGHT PLEATSNext, I’ll draft the back with two not-angled pleats, and I’ll also look into seam and grainline placement in the pattern. This part offers a good overview of how the pleats are drafted in a circle skirt. PART 3: THE FRONT AND CROSSOVER PLEATSFinally, the front with the angled pleats will be drafted, completing the draft along. As I have realized that many of you are relatively new to pattern drafting I added these two posts: TRACING BACK PIECES
TRACING FRONT PIECESThe draft-along is now completed but I will still check out this thread if you want to ask a question, exchange ideas, add photos. Hope to see you here! |
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Post by Hari on Oct 17, 2014 11:07:34 GMT
That's wonderful! Thankyou! Count me in
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Post by afoolishmaven on Oct 19, 2014 14:47:46 GMT
very nice
I'm in
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Post by Modisty on Oct 24, 2014 12:00:50 GMT
I think this is going to be very interesting. I have completed the calculation in today's post with no problem, which is a minor miracle in my case. I am surprised that this is not even a half-circle pattern. For 3 eights it looks fuller - probably the way they draw the waist/hips ratios. Perhaps this will make it more flattering as circle skirts do make hips look wider.
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Post by Modisty on Oct 24, 2014 12:05:16 GMT
Re above comment - is this just for the front? That makes more sense.
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Post by Nancy Karpen on Oct 24, 2014 15:37:25 GMT
What fabric are you using for your skirt? As I said I am making this for my dd and I have a red and cream stripe cotton that I am thinking of using. I remember seeing a striped skirt with this kind of pleating. It's fairly light weight and I am not going to use a petticoat, just a lining. She's tiny and I don't think that she will like such a full skirt nor would it be good for work.
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Post by Imogheena on Oct 25, 2014 3:38:04 GMT
Hi, I don't need a petticoat, so don't want to draft it if it's not necessary. Do I need to draft the 3/8 circle skirt you have described in Part 3 for the outer skirt as well? As in are we using that to also create the outer skirt?
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Post by Frabjous on Oct 26, 2014 12:15:09 GMT
Re above comment - is this just for the front? That makes more sense. Modisty, the entire pattern is 3/8th of a circle. I've checked the pattern pieces and that's what it is. You can always make it fuller, and I have in my blog post I've included formulas for different types of circle skirts, so you can use any of those. I think though that for these pleats I wouldn't go more than half circle. Why don't you make a muslin for the first pleat-free piece and see if you like the amount of fullness... |
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Post by Frabjous on Oct 26, 2014 12:18:28 GMT
What fabric are you using for your skirt? As I said I am making this for my dd and I have a red and cream stripe cotton that I am thinking of using. I remember seeing a striped skirt with this kind of pleating. It's fairly light weight and I am not going to use a petticoat, just a lining. She's tiny and I don't think that she will like such a full skirt nor would it be good for work. Both, petticoat and lining are optional. The first pattern will be used mostly as a foundation for drafting pleats, and, if you want, as a lining. As for the fabric, I think cotton would be great. I would only avoid too drapey fabrics because the pleats will not be as attractive then. Hope this helps ) |
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Post by Frabjous on Oct 26, 2014 12:20:36 GMT
Hi, I don't need a petticoat, so don't want to draft it if it's not necessary. Do I need to draft the 3/8 circle skirt you have described in Part 3 for the outer skirt as well? As in are we using that to also create the outer skirt? The first piece is a master pattern on which we will draft both, the back and the front. You can also use it for petticoat or lining as you wish) Part 2 is the back piece, and Part 3 is the front piece. |
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Post by Imogheena on Oct 29, 2014 11:55:18 GMT
I've just drawn up a 3/8ths skirt diagram to suit my waist, and length measurements on Inkscape. (I went with 70cm length as I like longer skirts) I even checked the circumference round the hip will be wide enough for my own hip (Hourglass figure, small waist/big hips) and it will do it with fabric to spare. Looking forward to the next step :-)
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Post by Veronica on Oct 29, 2014 17:38:49 GMT
Hello, question regarding grainlines. What would happen if you put the side seams on the grainline. I don't want a center front and back seam.
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Post by Frabjous on Oct 30, 2014 7:14:03 GMT
I've just drawn up a 3/8ths skirt diagram to suit my waist, and length measurements on Inkscape. (I went with 70cm length as I like longer skirts) I even checked the circumference round the hip will be wide enough for my own hip (Hourglass figure, small waist/big hips) and it will do it with fabric to spare. Looking forward to the next step :-) Great! Great you checked the hips as well, especially with hourglass or pear bodies it is a useful thing to do. How is Inkscape? I use Illustrator, but my main issue for drafting in it is that I cannot measure curves and at this point don't want to invest in a plugin. |
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Post by Frabjous on Oct 30, 2014 7:34:04 GMT
Hello, question regarding grainlines. What would happen if you put the side seams on the grainline. I don't want a center front and back seam. You won't be able to put all sideseams on grain with this style, because the sideseams are not on 90 or 180 degree angle. This would be possible with a 1/2 circle skirt, or full circle skirt with two side seams. In this skirt you could eliminate center back and center front and place these center lines on grain, but then these sections will fall straight/flat. You will then get most flare at the sides, which makes the body look little wider. Usually, sections that are on grain have the least flare, and the bias sections - the most. If you have true bias in the middle (best achieved in a 1/2 circle skirt), with most flare in center front and center back sections the skirt is more 'slenderizing'. Now, this first pattern is for lining or petticoat. I would not worry about the center seams much. The skirt itself has seams hidden in pleat folds. Finally, you have to consider the fabric you use for both, the skirt and the lining. If you want more/ stiffer support underneath your main skirt, even distribution of flare in the lining/petticoat will make the skirt stand out evenly at the hem. Hope this helps) |
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Post by pandaseal on Nov 3, 2014 23:19:20 GMT
This is probably a silly question, but why are the lengths of the sides, back and front different?
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