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Post by Frabjous on Jul 15, 2014 11:25:59 GMT
I should probably kick off this sub-forum by posting some of my me-made garments. Here is a godet skirt I made more or less recently. Pattern: self-drafted based on a straight skirt sloper Materials used: wool crepe, silk organza (for underlining), silk crepe-de-chine (lining) Couture techniques: besides dome general (?) techniques such as making a toile, underlining etc, I made a faced waistband. I like this skirt and wear it a lot, but next time I draft a godet skirt I won't be distributing darts evenly between the gores in the back. Quite a few lessons learnt here
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Post by patsijean on Jul 15, 2014 15:50:05 GMT
You say that next time you make the gored skirt you will not be distributing the darts evenly across the back. What do you mean by that? Why not? What happened?
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Post by Frabjous on Jul 16, 2014 2:23:53 GMT
I will try to explain. In the back I have two darts each with 6,6cm intake, which makes 13.2cm total intake in the back. The godet skirt has four gores in the front and four gores in the back. I have evenly distributed the 13.2cm intake between the back four gores, that is in three seams (one of which was center back seam) with 4.4cm intake for each seam. It turned out to be a little too much for the center back seam in particular creating a small hardly noticeable bulge at the end of the 'dart'. I measured everything - there was no stretching, but the bulge was there. I had an invisible zipper in that seam and the seam was interfaced and stayed. At the end I just spent half an hour steaming and lightly pressing the spot and it helped.
For similar future projects, I think I will reduce dart intake for the center back seam by one third maybe, and redistribute the remaining intake between the remaining back seams/darts.
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Post by Frabjous on Jul 28, 2014 17:18:59 GMT
My most recent (couture) make: a brocade dress. I posted more images on my blog, in order not to overload this post. It's a popular Matthew Williamson pattern from 09/2012 issue of Burdastyle magazine.
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