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Post by Frabjous on Jul 28, 2014 3:39:56 GMT
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Post by CharlieVoid on Jul 29, 2014 12:52:38 GMT
Hi ! Thanks for this hard work, I now have a shiny new custom skirt sloper ! I've spotted some minor errors in the text: Front and Back Waistline are referred to as "FWW" and "BWW" when we named it "FWL" and "BWL" in the calculations sheet. In the "Side Dart" section, you wrote "make the line ED as front waistline" when it should have been the "line EH" if I'm not mistaking. In the last line from the "Back Dart" section, you wrote "draw lines from points H and I to point M" when it should have been the points K and L to point M.
I have some questions: can I round the side and waist lines to follow more natural curves from the hips and belly ? And can I divide the back dart into two smaller ones if I think it's too big on its own ?
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Post by Frabjous on Jul 30, 2014 15:17:07 GMT
Thank you for spotting typos! I've corrected the last post accordingly Now, about your questions. You can round the side and waistlines if you want, it makes some difference for bigger angles.Try to stay close to the your original straight line though because you can accidentally add or remove too much from your circumferences. You can divide the back dart into smaller ones and place them on both sides of the most protruding part of your buttocks, 3 to 5cm apart (1 1/4 to 2"). If you are working with softer, drapier fabric, you can divide your back dart into two darts; stiffer fabrics would benefit from splitting into three darts. The dart closer to the side seam can be about 3cm shorter than the more central dart. If your back dart intake is big you can also convert the dart into a seam. Hope this helps
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Post by CharlieVoid on Jul 30, 2014 17:16:57 GMT
Thank you for answering my questions, it is very useful.
You say that I should place the divided back darts on the most protruding parts. But I have a swayback and large hips, so shouldn't the center be more shaped that the side, and the darts closer to the center back ?
My back dart intake is 9,4 cm, do you think it is worth converting into a seam ?
Also, what is your advice on belt/waist bands that I often see in skirts ?
I'm a newbie, I think it shows in my questions, I hope you don't mind ^^'
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Post by Frabjous on Jul 31, 2014 2:25:22 GMT
Don't worry about asking too many questions, it's a good practice for me as well So, dart placement. You have some flexibility with it, whether in the back, in the front, or in the side area, without much effect on the fit. For example, you can shift side seam (keeping the side dart distribution the same) by up to 3 cm to the front or to the back without affecting the fit much and keeping the side seam straight. In the back you can place the darts wherever you consider them more flattering, just don't forget that they are there to shape your buttocks, so leave them do it more or less, how you distribute them is your decision that will have little effect one the fit, and make at least one dart per buttock. with 9.4 cm intake, you can convert to a seam if you are dealing with some stiff and tricky fabric, or just add another dart, making it three. But first make a sloper with two darts and check the look. Try to sew your darts nicely for your test garment, paying attention to the apex. I find muslin responds well to pressing and steaming, so if you get good results with muslin, you will be good with any fabric that behaves the same (I love wool crepe, or tweeds, for example - you can do so much with heat and steam). If the results are less satisfactory, go for one more dart to have smoother transition from the apex, or convert it to a seam, especially if you will be dealing with fabrics like taffeta, or wool gabardine, as an example.
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Post by bailee on Jul 31, 2014 5:34:13 GMT
When calculating the dart depth why do you add the front dart depth, back dart depth, and the left side dart depth, and not include the right dart depth?
I calculated both with and without.
When calculating the error, using the DD without the right dart depth included I got .66. Using the DD with the right dart depth included I got .5.
How much of a difference will using one over the other make overall?
Thank you!!!
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Post by Frabjous on Aug 1, 2014 13:56:23 GMT
bailee, we take only darts for one side because we are drafting half pattern, for a symmetrical body. If we were to draft a pattern for asymmetrical figure, we'd have to take measurements for both sides separately and draft full pattern. I am not covering asymmetrical body in my draft along. I am taking left side just for consistency: we are using left side dart, left side length etc. Therefore, you will need to calculate everything using the Dart Depth formula as in the calculation sheet. DD (Dart Depth) = FD + LD + BD As for your calculations, could you post here your dart measurements, your waist and hip circumference please. The value you got may point at some error in measuring darts or hips - it is normally closer to 1. Good luck
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Post by CharlieVoid on Aug 3, 2014 14:27:59 GMT
Hello ! I finished stitching my muslin today, the overall fit is nice but I have small issues: the front, when you look at it from the side, is not parallel to the floor (it is about 2,5 cm longer/lower that the back, at the centre), and the lower part of the side seam isn't vertical, it is slightly dragged to the front. Do you know what could cause this issues ? I have around 1 cm gaps on each back hips, but I think I can solve this issue by adding to the nearest back darts. And the middle of the waist is shaped like a soft V, maybe I can reduce the angle at which the waistline meet the center front on my pattern ? Other than that there is no tension lines on the skirt, which is good. I can sit fine without making the seams explode, and I don't feel squished around the hips or the bum. Even though I feel like the final skirt could benefit much from a waistband to "secure" the fit around the waist.
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Post by Frabjous on Aug 3, 2014 14:49:35 GMT
charlievoid could you post some images of your skirt on you from the front, back, and the side. Please make sure that the floor is horizontal on the image, and take all the images from the same distance. Also, post your measurements (you can take a picture if they are on a sheet of paper, so you don't have to rewrite them here), then I will be able to tell you what causes the problems. It can be your posture (we tend to stand differently when taking measurements), problems with measurements and calculations... I have to take a look
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Post by CharlieVoid on Aug 4, 2014 14:18:31 GMT
Here are my measurements: Waist (with ease): 91 cm Hips (with the paper band): 127,5 cm Length to floor: side: 102 cm; front: 96 cm; back: 102 cm Garment length: 40 cm Dart intake: front dart width: 2,4 cm; front dart length: 10 cm side dart width: 6,5 cm; side dart length: 24,5 cm back dart width: 9,5 cm; back dart length: 20 cm
I'll try to take pictures today but I can't promise they will be of very good quality, because I have no "real" camera (only laptop webcam) unfortunately :/
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Post by CharlieVoid on Aug 4, 2014 15:35:44 GMT
Hello again, I managed to take the photos, I hope it'll be useful to you (I have poor photography skills, sorry I can't do better than this):
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Post by CharlieVoid on Aug 4, 2014 15:39:16 GMT
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Post by Frabjous on Aug 5, 2014 4:14:24 GMT
charlievoid, I looked at your pictures and there are several issues, but you are on the right pass. One by one. 1. I think there is a problem with your length measurements, especially in the front, it looks like you'd need more length there. Could you remeasure with an elastic band around your waist. Please, make sure you stand naturally! 2. You need slightly larger hip circumference. It takes some practice to measure the hip circumference without creating a cone with the 'hip band'. It needs to be a cylinder with parallel sides. Look at the drag lines around your tummy - they indicate that you need more fabric there. I'd guess couple of centimetres would do it, but do re-measure please. Adding around hips should correct the side seam significantly, because the fabric will then fall freely from the buttocks without gathering at the waist are in the back. Right now, tightness around your hips doesn't allow it to behave this way. 3. Your darts. You have to be very accurate with darts. The length is different in the back, two darts closer to the centre should be the same length as measured, they should be placed close to the centre of each buttock, slightly off toward the centre back. The other dart should be positioned about three to five cm further toward the side seam, and it should be the same length as the corresponding dart on the other back half. Right now they are placed to close to the centre back. On the attached image I painted the correct placement. (you'll need to click the thumb image on the bottom of this post - to me it looks like a black rectangle, not sure how it shows on your computer) You can post your new measurements here, and I'll help you with calculations and drafting. 4. Finally, you have asymmetric figure - this poses an additional challenge for accurate drafting. Right now you drafted a skirt for a symmetric body. But don't despair, let's practice the symmetric skirt first and then I can show you how to draft a skirt for asymmetric body, it's only a few steps extra and you can use the work you have done for one side already.
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Post by CharlieVoid on Aug 5, 2014 13:15:53 GMT
Thank you very much for your advices, I will work on the measurements and I'll get back to you with the new ones. I can see the pictures but I have to register first to see it full size, so I'm going to do that too.
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Post by rudaian on Aug 13, 2014 16:08:53 GMT
Hi
Thank You so much for sharing your efforts. It definitely took you a lot to do that but i am sure you loved every minute of it. I think you should consider writing a drafting book in future.
Good Luck!
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